Guide to Jimena de la Frontera, a white village gateway to the Alcornocales Parque Natural
in Cádiz Province, Andalucia, Spain
By Nick Nutter | 12 Aug 2020
Jimena de la Frontera is a typical ‘reconquest’ village. The words ‘de la Frontera’ indicate that it was on the border between Moorish occupied Spain and the invading Christians. It is a fine example of an Andalucian ‘white village’ with a castle dominating the town. The town occupies a steep hill, Mount St. Christobal, on a ridge between the rivers Hozgarganta and Guadiaro at a height of 203 metres.
Cave Paintings at Cueva Laja Alta
Jimena has adopted, for its emblem, a representation of some cave paintings found in Cueva Laja Alta. The cave paintings represent sea scenes and depict Phoenician style ships. Since the paintings were made in the cave of Laja Alta, near Jimena, around 1,000 BC, numerous civilizations have gone through the lands of Jimena: Iberians, Roman, Visigoth, Arab and Christian, of which many ruins are preserved.
Romans in Jimena de la Frontera
It is in the Roman period when the region was at its real height, due to the intensive agricultural exploitation of the plains crossed by the rivers Guadiaro and Hozgarganta. The Roman town of Oba, situated on the hill above Jimena, already founded by the Iberians, even minted its own money. Oba was abandoned by the Romans in the 4th century AD and, apparently, by the local population as well until the 10th century AD when a group of Spanish Christians established a church and settlement in the shadow of the by now ruined Roman remains. They called their village Jimena.
The Moors in Jimena de la Frontera
The Moorish occupiers of Andalucia ignored the village until around 1150 AD when Jimena found itself at the frontier between Spanish Christian forces and territory held by the Moors. The Moors built a castle using some of the Roman remains and called the place Ximena. In the arch over the gateway there is a stone visible today with a Latin inscription. The Moors held it sporadically until finally expelled in 1456. The castle saw its last development during the Peninsular Wars when the wall surrounding the Moorish tower was built.
A Walk to the Castle
A walk up through the village, through the winding, rambling streets to reach the vantage point of the castle is well worthwhile. The people of Jimena are proud of their village particularly their plants. Colourful pots and planters decorate many of the houses. Nor have they entirely lost their traditional way of life. Do not be surprised to see, hitched to a bar, a family donkey. The streets are, after all, more suitable for donkeys than motor vehicles.
In Jimena itself, in the vicinity of the village square, dominated by its ornate clock tower, you will find a few bars and restaurants. They all serve tapas as well as full meals. The food is traditional Andalucian including one dish peculiar to this area, Tagarnina, made from edible thistles.
In 1879 Alfonso XII gave the title of Cuidad, Town, to Jimena de la Frontera as a mark of esteem.
Things to do in Jimena de la Frontera
Jimena de la Frontera is a gateway to the beautiful Los Alcornocales Parque Natural. On the western front of the Andalusian mountains, between the provinces of Cadiz and Malaga, this natural area is a succession of rugged mountains of different heights. Wind and rain erosion over millions of years has created a rugged landscape with gigantic rock slabs and forbidding crevices. Within the park, there are many walking and biking routes.Return to Los Alcornocales Parque Natural travel guide
Return to Twelve White Villages travel guide
Go to: Cádiz province
Go to: Cádiz city
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About the Author
Nick has lived and worked in Andalucia for over 20 years. He and his partner, Julie Evans, have travelled extensively and dug deep into the history and culture, producing authoritative articles on all aspects of the region. Nick has written four books about Andalucia and writes articles for other websites and blogs.